Lucerna e il suo Leone morente

Prima tappa del nostro viaggio "on the road" in Francia, Lucerna è stata una vera sorpresa, la città è molto bella, immersa in un meraviglioso panorama montano e affacciata sulle sponde del Lago dei Quattro Cantoni.
Come tutta la svizzera Lucerna è particolarmente cara, in particolare per gli alberghi, abbiamo comunque avuto la fortuna di trovare una sistemazione in un ostello a 10min a piedi dal centro, il backpackers lucerne, ad un prezzo più che accettabile.
Appena sistemati abbiamo approfittato della bella giornata per passeggiare sulle sponde del lago antistante l'Ostello attirati da tantissimi ragazzi che prendevano il sole organizzatissimi con birra e barbecue.

lucerna

Lucerna è una città storica e non molto grande, la si può visitare in un weekend orientandosi facilmente tra le viuzze, le piazze e dai maestosi palazzi decorati che compongono il centro storico. Il simbolo di Lucerna è il Ponte della Cappella, Kapellbrücke, costruito durante nel XIV secolo come fortificazione cittadina. Lungo il ponte spicca la Torre d’acqua, forse il monumento più fotografato della Svizzera.

Ma ci sono tante altre cose da vedere come l'antichissimo ponte Spreuer e le chiuse 'ad ago', che tuttora regolano il livello dell'acqua del lago di Lucerna. Altro importante simbolo di Lucerna è il Leone morente, uno dei monumenti più famosi del mondo, ricavato da una roccia naturale, commemora il sacrificio delle Guardie Svizzere massacrate nel 1792, durante i torbidi della Rivoluzione Francese, quando i rivoluzionari presero d'assalto il Palazzo delle Tuileries a Parigi.

Il leone morente di lucerna

Lo scrittore statunitense Mark Twain ha descritto la scultura del leone ferito a morte, come:

il pezzo di pietra più triste e commovente del mondo

Di seguito il brano completo:

The commerce of Lucerne consists mainly in gimcrackery of the souvenir sort; the shops are packed with Alpine crystals, photographs of scenery, and wooden and ivory carvings. I will not conceal the fact that miniature figures of the Lion of Lucerne are to be had in them. Millions of them. But they are libels upon him, every one of them. There is a subtle something about the majestic pathos of the original which the copyist cannot get. Even the sun fails to get it; both the photographer and the carver give you a dying lion, and that is all. The shape is right, the attitude is right, the proportions are right, but that indescribable something which makes the Lion of Lucerne the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world, is wanting.

The Lion lies in his lair in the perpendicular face of a low cliff--for he is carved from the living rock of the cliff. His size is colossal, his attitude is noble. How head is bowed, the broken spear is sticking in his shoulder, his protecting paw rests upon the lilies of France. Vines hang down the cliff and wave in the wind, and a clear stream trickles from above and empties into a pond at the base, and in the smooth surface of the pond the lion is mirrored, among the water-lilies.

Around about are green trees and grass. The place is a sheltered, reposeful woodland nook, remote from noise and stir and confusion--and all this is fitting, for lions do die in such places, and not on granite pedestals in public squares fenced with fancy iron railings. The Lion of Lucerne would be impressive anywhere, but nowhere so impressive as where he is. (Mark Twain, Chapter XXVI: The Nest of the Cuckoo-Clock in «A Tramp Abroad», 1880).

Dopo la visita al Leone ed una passeggiata in centro sotto la pioggia ce ne torniamo in albergo stanchi per una giornata molto piena cominciata a Roma alle 3 di notte e 870Km percorsi. La mattina successiva comincerà il nostro viaggio in Francia che avrà come prima tappa Strasburgo.

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